ANTIQUE - Any item judged to have been made at least 50 years ago. Age for jewelry only -United States Customs states 100 years. In the United States; Anything over 100 years old. England; Anything made before 1830 (before the industrial revolution)

ARGENTINA - A French term for "nickel silver", "German silver" or other non-precious imitation.

ART DECO - Characteristic geometric design form begun in the late nineteenth century and specifically associated with the period from 1920-1935.

ART MODERN/ART RETRO - An extension and modification of ART DECO into the 1940's & 50's.

ART NOUVEAU - Characteristic flowing lines based on natural forms, 1890's-1910.
1885 into the 1920's

ARTS & CRAFTS MOVEMENT - Characterized by handmade silver and enamel pieces set with rough or flawed stones: movement strongest from 1900 to 1910.(1915 ?)

BAGUETTE - Small gems cut in the form of narrow rectangles or tapered trapezoids.

BAIL - The suspension loop on a pendant, locket,, watch etc.

BANGLE - A bracelet which is not flexible.

BATON CUT - Stones cut in shape of long narrow rectangle, larger than baguette.

BAROQUE PEARL - An irregular shape more common than spherical may be natural or cultured.

BASSE-TAILLE - A method of enameling in which the surface of the metal is hollowed out to receive the enamel. Similar to CHAMPLEVE'.
The design in the base metal was first made by chasing, carving, engraving, stamping or engine-turning, and then the surface was covered with transparent or translucent colored enamel that is then fused by firing.

BASE METAL - Any non-precious metal.

BEAD-SET - Beads of metal, which secure the stone flush with the mount as in pave'd pieces. Beads are made from the host metal and not added

BELCHER MOUNT - A design where claws are formed as part of the ring band or brooch mount. Popular circa 1880.

BEZEL SET - A collar of metal burnished over the girdle of the stone.

BLOOMED GOLD - A mat surface due to acid treatment. Popular mid to late nineteenth century. Discolors easily.

BOHEMIAN GARNET - A loosely used term to indicate the small dark red rose-cut garnets USED lavishly in the late nineteenth century.

BOMBE MOUNT - Convex shaped, often used in the period jewelry, particularly in bracelets and brooches.

BRAUN EMAIL - Enamel effect from firing linseed oil in engraved lines. Dark reddish color.

BRIGHT CUT - A deep, sharply cut engraving in the metal, in metal, associated with the Victorian Period.

BRIOLETTE - An oval or teardrop shaped stone covered with small triangular facets.

BUFF-TOP - A stone cut with cabochon crown (top) and faceted pavilion (bottom).

BASKET MOUNT - Describes the area where the sides and part of the shank of the ring head are in an openwork design.

BLUE-WHITE - A diamond term used to infer the finest color---- it is misused to the point of being meaningless.

C-CLASP - A simple closure in the shape of a "c" found on antique brooches.

CABOCHON - A polished, not faceted, dome shaped stone - either round or oval with a flat polished base, primarily used for phenomenon stones such as cats eyes and stars.

CAMEO - The process of carving in order to leave a raised design (above the table of the stone). Not made of assembled pieces. Opposite of Intaglio.

CANNETILLE - Open coiled wirework a technique popular during the first half of the nineteenth century.

CARAT - (1) A unit weight of gemstones, equal to .2 grams. (2) British spelling of "KARAT'.

CARTOUCHE - Shield or scroll (shape); usually has Hallmark or Punchmark with in.

CAST - Is formed by pouring molten metal into a mold.

CAT'S EYE - A well defined streak of light along a cabochon (chatoyancy).

CHALCEDONY - A semi-transparent to translucent form of quartz.

CHAMPLEVE' - An enamel technique, employing an etched design filled with enamel. See "Cloisonné" and "Taille D' Epergne",
The design is made by lines or cells cut into the metal base and filled with powdered enamel of various colors and then fired to fuse the enamels

CHANNEL SET -Rows of gems secured by metal flanges, with no claws or beads used.

CIRCA or CA -Means "approximately" (Never use "circa" and dated
when describing a piece which has English hallmarks).

CLAWED COLLET - A collet set with integral triangular shaped flat claws, typically early nineteenth century. See "bezel set".

CLEAVAGE - A break parallel to cleavage plane. Possible only in some stones, i.e., Topaz, Diamond.

CLOISENNE' - An enamel technique within cells created by soldering wire to a base. See "Champleve" and "Taille D' Epergne".A design is outlined on a metal plate with bent wire or metal strips of rectangular section wire that are affixed edgewise to the metal base; spaces are filled in with fused colord enamels.

CLOSED-BACK SETTING - A setting where the pavilion (bottom) of the stone is enclosed. The stone may be foil backed. Caution; do not immerse jewelry with closed back settings in any liquid.

COLLET-SET - See 'BEZEL SET".

COMPOSITION - Early plastics - including celluloid, bakelite, gutta-percha, etc. earliest date--to 1850's.

CROWN - That portions of the stone which is above the girdle (widest area).

CRUCIFORM - That which is in the form of a cross.

CULET - A small facet polished across the pavilion (bottom) point of a faceted stone.

CULTURED PEARL - Forced introduction of a nucleus into a mollusk, stimulating a chemical composition called "Nacre", which forms a cultured pearl. Note--The use of the word "pearl" alone means "natural". see "Natural Pearl".

CURB CHAIN - Flattened links.

CUSHION CUT - A square or rectangular stone with rounded corners and many crown facets

DEMI-PARURE - A small suite of jewelry, usually a brooch and earrings or necklace and earrings.

DEPOSE' - The French equivalent of "patent" or "registration".

DOUBLET - A two part assembled stone. Used to enhance color or imitate a stone. Do not immerse in fluids. See "triplet".

EDWARDIAN - Description used for the period during the rule of Edward VII, (1903-1910).

EN ESCLAVAGE - Plaques joined by two or more parallel chains, such as in early nineteenth century necklaces, etc.

EMAIL DE VERRE - A multicolored or polychrome enamel in network on glass. It is executed by carving on a plaque of glass or crystal backed with foil; the design makes concave depressions that are lined with gold leaf and filled with polychrome powdered enamels.

EMAIL EN RONDE BOSSE - Enamel on an object in the round. Opaque enamel is applied thickly on a raised or metal surface to form a relief decoration.

ENAMEL - A pigment of vitreous nature composed usually of powdered potash or silica bound with oil colored with glass as a surface decoration by low-temperature firing.

ENGRAVING - Ornamentation using chisels or engravers to cut away design.

ENGINE TURNING - Machine engraving to produce design and/or brilliance, often a base for enamels.

EN PLEIN SUR FOND RESERVE' - A technique in which the enameled surface is broad surface is broad and of one color atop a polished engraved base in a restricted area; commonly called used by the Russian enamelists, particularly Faberge'

EMERALD-CUT - A rectangular step-cut or trap-cut with 45-degree corner angles.

ESTATE - Previously owned jewelry, not necessarily antique.

ETCHING - Chemical engraving.

FACETING - Polishing a gemstone into a series of planes for maximum beauty and brilliance.

FILIGREE - A fine wire bent and soldered to create a design either with or without ground (base).

FILIGREE ENAMEL - Decorating in the manner of cloisonne' enameling, with the difference that cloisons are made of twisted wire soldered to the base and filled with opaque enamel.

FLORENTINE MOSAIC - A type of mosaic made in Florence, composed of tiny pieces of opaque varicolored hard stones, selected and arranged so that the colors and gradations of tones create a pictorial effect, usually of flowers or scenes, that is cemented on a background of white or black marble. See Moasic "Micro-Mosaic" & "Pieta Du".

FLORENTINE FINISHES - Cross-hatched lines on modern or pseudo antique items.

FLUORESCENCE - The varying color effects produced when materials are subjected to ultra-violet light.

FOB - A seal or other decorative items used as a suspension from a man's watch chain.

FOILED - A thin metal foil behind a stone in a closed-back setting which adds color and/or brilliance.

FRACTURE - A break of any sort other than cleavage which may occur in any stone.

FRENCH IVORY - Celluloid (plastic) made to resemble ivory.

FRENCH JET - Black glass made to resemble jet.

GALLERY - On a ring, the area below the setting, usually described as pierced, carved, etc.

GEMOLOGY - The study of gemstones.

GILDED or GILT - Dipped in gold.

GIRANDOLE - A pendant, brooch or earrings with swinging pear-shaped drops.

GIRDLE - The extreme edge of a fashioned gemstone, it divides the crown and pavilion.

GOLD FILLED - Layer(s) of gold joined to base metal. Similar to rolled gold. Fraction may indicate ratio of gold content to total weight.

"GOLD SMUDGE" - Discoloration of the skin and/or clothing occurs with some people who cannot wear 14 or 18k gold without it leaving a greenish mark. Acids in the skin or chemicals in cosmetics usually cause this, which abrade the softer karat gold. This abrasion deposits a fine metallic powder on the skin. Thus, pure gold (24k) smudges
readily while a harder alloy may not. Persons with oily or greasy skins report the most difficulty. Their skin oils form a deposit known as oleate of gold. Absolute cleanliness of both skin and gold article alleviates the problem. A new product, called "Gold Guard," applied once a day is said to combat the gold smudge.

GRANULATION - Application of tiny gold beads to a plain surface by soldering. Employed extensively by the ancient Etruscans, the process was lost until he 19th century when it was rediscovered by experimentation's carried out largely by the celebrated Italian, Forutnato Castellani. Typical of the Etruscan style popular in the mid-nineteenth century

GRISAILLE - Layer(s) of white enamel over gray ground produces a monochromatic effect. A type of decoration in painted enamel in which the picture or design is monochrome - usually shades of gray on a white background.

GUNMETAL - Blackened Matte steel.

GYPSY SETTING - A stone sunk into a mount with table flush with the mount surface. Usually there is one to three stones in the ring.

HAIR COMPARTMENT - A glass compartment on the reverse side of a piece of jewelry which held hair of a friend, lover, or relative, but not necessarily a memorial piece of jewelry. Popular mid-nineteenth century.

HAIR JEWELRY - Braided or designed human hair made into jewelry (i.e. watch chains, earrings, etc.) for memento or memorial.

HALLMARK - System of marking precious metals, but not required on antique jewelry.

HANDKERCHIEF RINGS - Identified by a loop attached to the back of the ring through which a handkerchief was passed. A Victorian style.

HANDY PINS - A small novelty "safety pin" or narrow bar pin. Usually sold in pairs.

HOLOLITH RING - A finger ring cut from one piece of gem material.

LLUSION SETTING - That metal which surrounds a stone making it appear larger than it is.

IMITATION - A substitute for the "real" thing.

INCRUSTATION - An overlay of gemstones, gold, etc., on the surface of another substance.

INLAY - To set in a surface to form a decoration. The process of decorating by inserting shaped pieces of material (not enamel) into the surface or ground of an abject so that the surfaces of both are level.

INTAGLIO - Material carved (worked) so that the design is cut into the surface of the material (incised). Opposite of cameo.

IRRADIATED DIAMONDS - Enhancement of color in diamonds radiation. Colored diamonds do occur in nature. In others the color may be enhanced by this treatment. The effect of radiation on diamonds was first discovered in 1904 by Sir William Crooks but did
not become an important addition to the jewelry trade until after 1960. (See Theodore & Irwin Moed, Inc.)

IRIDIUM - Used as an alloy or platinum to create a hard metal. Platinum is generally alloyed with 3% copper; if a harder metal is wanted, the alloy is 10% iridium and for a medium hard alloy, 5% is used. The hardness of iridium also makes it serviceable for pen points.

"I" STAR SAPPHIRES - Israeli-made simulated stones made by Kibbutz Nachson using equipment acquired from Union Carbide Corp., makers of the Lind'e Stars.

JADE - The term covers two distinct types of stones: jadeite, the Chinese jade, and nephrite, the New Zealand geeenstone, Different in chemical composition, jadeite is pyrozene and nephrite belongs to the amphibole or hornblende group of minerals. Jadeite is the rarer and more precious. The name "jade" comes from the Spanish piedra de ijada" stone of the side" as it was thought to cure pain located there. Wyoming nephrite jade and nephrite jade from Siberia rank as the finest in the works, along with jadeite from Siberia rank as the finest in the world, along with jadeite from Burma and southern China.

JASPER - An opaque, compact form of quartz which occurs in shades of dark red, brown, yellow, green and gray. Used especially for larger decorative pieces. Engraved rings of jasper were unearthed from many ancient sites. The word comes from the Greek inspis, of Semitic origin.

JET - A hard black variety of coal or lignite. The name originally came from a Greek place name; to the Latin gagates; to the mediaeval French jaiet. Specimens are known from the Bronze Ave. The main source of supply since Roman times is the working of the Yorkshire coast of England near Whitby. Whitby jet, particularly, was a favorite of Queen Victoria during her widowhood.

KARAT - Measurement of the fineness of gold. Pure gold is 24 Karat. Continental standards are marked as decimals, i.e., .750 for 18k, .375 for 9k, etc.

KARATCLAD - Heavy gold electroplate that is 14 times thicker than is required by marking regulations for conventional gold electroplate. The first heavy gold electroplate, with consistent high karat non tarnishing brilliance, color uniformity and higher hardness is known by its trademark "Karatclad."

KARAT GOLD - Any solid alloy of gold with other metals, below a fineness of 24k but more than 10k, may be stamped showing the actual fineness, for example "18k Gold.

KASHAN RUBIES - Laboratory-grown rubies made by Kashan Laboratories, Dallas Texas.

"KEEPER" RING - Wide band of bold deeply engraved and worn above the wedding ring to prevent its loss. Some were incised with the word "Mizpah" (The Lord be between me and thee when we are absent one from the other). Popular n the 18th and 19th centuries.

KRIPTONIUM - A gold look-alike marketed by J. Lewis Small.

KHESHI - Accidental by-product of salt water culturing pearl process.

LACE RINGS - For holding the folds of a scarf or lace fichu - fashionable in the second half of the 18th century.

LAPIS LAZULI - From the Latin word for stone (lapis) and the Arabic al-lazward, which originally referred only to the sky. The word passed into Old French during the time of the Crusades as azur from which the word azur is derived. Laps lazuli is an opaque stone with gold flecks (iron pyrites) and calcite. Ground lapis lazuli was used in artist's colors until replaced by ultramarine.

LASER - ( Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation). The first practical development was by Dr. Theodore Maiman, then of Hughes Aircraft Corp. in q962, Thereby proving the 1959 theory of Dr.. Charles H. Townes, of Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Pulses of coordinated light beams are set up within a rod or crystal - ruby or YAG (q, v,) or a tube of helium and neon gases. The waves bounce back and forth until tremendous energy is build up. They are then released in a straight beam and focused to a sharp point. Such beams have been used in eye surgery and to bounce light from a mirror on the moon. The concentrations of energy at the focal point produce intense heat which can burn out carbon or other inclusions in a diamond.

LATEN (LATTEN) - Brass, a mixture of copper and zinc. A common metal of the Middle Ages. It resembles gold in color and is much softer than bronze.

LAVALIERE - A delicate pendant(s) worn on or attached to neck chains.

LIMOGES - A type of enamelwork on copper in the style of champleve' enamel found on much ware made at Limoges, France, in the late twelfth and thirteenth centuries, but infrequently used in jewelry. The metal in the cells was first covered with dark enamel, and then the design was built up with translucent enamels, the dark showing through as the background; unenameled metal areas are generally gilded.

LIDDICOATITE - A new variety of tourmaline, named for Richard T. Liddicoat. It has a hardness of about 7.5 on the Mohs scale. It is similar in color to the elbaite tourmaline with zones of red, pink, and blue in many specimens.

LIND'E STARS - Synthetic star stones. Products of the Linde Air Products Company, a subsidiary of Union Carbide Company. Patented. Now produces in a wide range of colors. Marked with the letter 'L" in script on the back of each stone. They are clearer and have sharper stars than the German stones made by Wiedes Cartidwerk.

LIQUID GOLD - merchandising term demoting karat gold items which have been given a highly polished surface.

LIQUID SILVER - A cosmetic term referring to a highly polished surface on some silver jewelry. Some costume jewelry makers have misleadingly used the term for item that have a "liquid silver" look.

LORGNETTE - A pair of eye glasses mounted on a handle; opera glasses similarly mounted.

LUCKENBOOTH BROOCHES - Heart shaped brooches, the name presumably because they were sold in the Luckenbooths street stalls (locked booths) near St. Giles Church, Edinburgh. They were often pinned to the shawl worn by a child at its christening to wart off evil.

LUSTER - Eight types of luster are recognized by the geologist: (1) Adamantie - characteristic of diamonds only, (2) Vitreous, the appearance of broken glass (sapphire, ruby, emerald, topaz, tourmaline and rock crystal), (3) Metallic, opaque gemstones (Hematite and pyrite are examples), (4) Pearly (Moonstone and opal), (5) Waxy,
Turquoise, (6) Resinous, having the appearance of resin (Garnets), (7) Silky, fine green malachite, and (8) Oily like the sheen of oil (Chrysolite).

MABE PEAL - Mabes are assembled after culturing. There fore, all Mabe cultured pearls are assembled cultured pearls.

MAKER'S MARK - Initials or trademark stamped or engraved on a piece.

MALACHITE - From the Greek malache, moloche, a mallow, from its green color. A dark green stone with bands of various shades of green. It is hydrated copper carbonate. Found mainly in the Ural Mountains, Mizhne - Tagilsk in Siberia, Zaire and Zimbabwe.

MARQUISE - Stone or item of jewelry that is essentially oval but has pointed ends.

MATRIX - Parent (or host) rock. Term usually associated with turquoise or opal.

MAZARIN CUT - See "single cut".

MELEE - Assortment of small diamonds of mixed sizes.

MEXICAN SILVER STANDARD - Since November 24, 1966 silver objects made in Mexico must show the name and assay of the metal, the name and firm name of producer or trademark, a registry number assigned by the government, and the legend "Hecho en Mexico" and a special seal of standard assigned by the government office. Objects too small to hold all this data may have a tag attached. The word "Sterling" is permitted only if the metal contains a legally set minimum of pure silver. These regulations were issues by the Mexican Industry and Commerce Industry.

MICRO-MOSAIC - Small pieces of glass (tesserae) grouted to form a design so fine that the design may appear to be painted.

MILLEGRAIN - A type of setting for stones in which tiny beads of the metal are raised to grip the girdle and so enhance the sparkling effect.

MOASIC - Pieces of glass or gems set in grout. See "Micro-Mosaic" & "Pietra Du". An object decorated with many small adjacent pieces of inlaid varicolored glass or stone arranged to form a picture of design. For articles of jewelry. The mosaic was usually made in the form of medallions set in brooches, pendants, and necklaces. Finger rings, earrings and parures.

MOCHE AGATE - Similar to moss agate. Inclusions are maganase oxide, which produce arborescent markings. It is found especially in Montana, Wyoming, and Nova Scotia.

MOHS SCALE - A table of comparative hardness devised by the Austrian mineralogist, Friedrich Mohs. Based on the ten relatively common minerals which are ranked from 1 to 10 in order of increasing hardness: (1) talc (2) gypsum (3) calcite (4) fluorite (5) apatite (6) feldspar (7) quartz (8) topaz (9) corundum (10) diamond. A fingernail will scratch gypsum and softer substances. Ordinary window glass is slightly softer than feldspar. Almost all-important numbers in the scale indicate only the order of hardness and bear no relationship to quantitative hardness. That is, there is a greater difference between the hardness of corundum and diamond (9 and 10) than between 1 and 9.

MOSS AGATE - A type of chalcedony. Varying amounts of oxide of iron inclusions produce moss like effects.

MOUCHIOR BAGS - Handkerchief bags.

MOURNING or MEMORIAL - Remembrances of dead friends, relatives, employers, etc. This type of jewelry may have hair compartments, engraved with details, and enameled (usually black or blue). See "hair Jewelry". Introduced in the 17th century.

NACRE - Iridescent layers of six - sided crystals of aragonite (calcium carbonate) held in web - like deposit of conchiolin to which pearls owe their luminous beauty.

NATIVE CUT - Term used to indicate irregularities of facts. Common in jewelry prior to the early twentieth century.

NATURAL PEARL - An accident of nature which can come from any part of the world which environment permits a pearl bearing mollusk to survive. Beauty, not origin establishes a pearl's value, with one exception, that is fresh water pearls fished from your own locality and sold there. Note also that the Federal Trade Commission says its an unfair trade practice to use the term "Oriental Pearl" unless it can be substantiated that the pearl came from the Persian Gulf and that the use of "pearl" alone means natural. See "Cultured Pearl".

NAVETTE CUT - The marquise or pointed oval.

NIER - GEM - A diamond simulant marketed by J. Nierenburg & Sons, Inc. Said to have a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale.

NICKEL SILVER - An alloy of 65% copper, 5 to 25% nickel, and 10 to 30% zinc.

NIELLO - A black material (sulfur, lead silver & copper mixed) used to fill engraved work on silver or gold.

OLD EUROPEAN CUT - Refers to a diamond cut with a circular shape and large CULET with the table diameter usually 50% or less then that of the girdle.

OLD MINE CUT - Refers to a diamond cut with a cushion shape, large CULET. Table diameter usually 50% or less
than that of the girdle.

OLIVINE - See Peridot.

OMEGA - 25% gold alloy marketed by Dieges & Clust.

ONYX - (Greek, onyx "a claw, fingernail") A form of chalcedony with black land white bands. Often carved into cameos, cups and vases and other decorative objects.

OPAL - The word "opal" is of doubtful origin but probably came from Sanskrit upala, meaning precious stone. This beautiful gemstone is a solidified jelly, not a crystal as are most of the other principal gemstones. Its exact nature is not completely understood. The varying refractive index of the this layers of which precious opal is composed give it its distinguishing characteristics. The principal fascination with precious opal comes from the infinite variety of color display. The main constituent is silica (SiO2Hs0) with the water content varying from 3 to 10%. Opal has hardness of 5.5 to 6.5 on the Mohs scale. All types of opal will crack if treated harshly; some will crack even when given the best of care. Much precious opal occurs in thin layers. For use in jewelry, this opal is cemented to a backing material before being set in jewelry. The materials most often used as a backing are common opal (called potch), onyx and a ceramic mater. The result is called a doublet. The top layer, or opal, is still subject to exposure and wear and can suffer damage. This problem is solved through the creation of colorless quartz cemented to the top. This protective layer not only protects the opal layer; it also enhances the appearance of the opal itself.

OPAL - ESSENCE o An imitation opal developed by John Slocum land marketed since 1976 by MDI Corp., Troy New York.

OXIDIZED SILVER - Has a blackened finish from immersion in potassium sulfide, etc.

PALLADIUM - A silver white metallic element belonging to the platinum group. Somewhat less expensive than platinum, it also does not tarnish, has good working properties and weighs only a little more than half as much making it a favored for use in large earrings. Palladium is sometimes alloyed with gold to obtain a greenish tint.

PARURE - A matching set (suite) of antique jewelry consisting of a necklace, earrings, brooch, ring, bracelet, and sometimes a tiara. Parures were introduced in the 18th century.

PASTE - Glass made to resemble gem materials, which may be molded, faceted, carved, etc.

PAVE' SETTING - Front or surface of ornament is covered with stones held in position by bead-set. I.e.: setting of closely matched and evenly set stones.

PAVILION - The portion of the stone below the girdle.

PEARL - A calcareoun concretion of calcium carbonate and organic matter secreted by a mollusk in response to an irritation. Layers on nacre and conchiolin are secreted concentrically around a center or core in response to an irritant. Natural pearls are formed when an object such as a grain of sand gets in between the inner layer of the shell and the mantle of the oyster. Cultured pearls are produced exactly the same way except that the irritant is introduced into the oyster by human means. Imitation pearls are simply glass beads with a thin coating of synthetic pearl essence. The beauty of pearls comes from the nacre or iridescent outer layers. The value of pearls is based on color, luster, translucency, texture, shape and size. A thick coating of nacre is essential for durability and for the utmost in beauty in a pearl. When deposited at to rapid a rate, however, the result is a coarse - grained appearance. The slower the rate, the finer the nacre and the more lustrous. Pearls from warmer waters, such as Burma and the South Seas are not as fine as those from the cooler waters off Japan. Pollution from industrial wastes has had a serious effect on the production and it has been estimated that unless stringent measures are taken to reduce this pollution, the pearl industry of Japan could be extinct within a few years.

PERIDOT - A variety of chrysolite. It is the gem of variety of olivine. The color is generally a warm olive or yellowish green. The main source is St. John's Island in the Red Sea.

PEWTER - There are no government regulations for pewter standards but there is an industry standard devised by the American Pewter Guild, assisted by the American Society of Testing and Materials. Guild members honor it as law. Their pewter is 92% tin, 7% antimony and 1% copper. Because high quality pewter takes a fine polish, it is not being used for some jewelry, especially pendants. Some "pewterlike" metal is now being used to manufacture lighter weight; sand cast aluminum - based products and is sold under such names as Armetale, Ameralloy and International Crafts Metal.

PIETRA DRUA - Polished gem materials set in a ground of (usually) black marble to form a design or motif.

PINCHBECK - An early 18th century alloy of copper and zinc (9 parts zinc and 48 parts copper) invented by Christopher Pinchbeck. Another formula consisted of 83 parts copper and 17 parts zinc. It looks like gold, wore well and maintained its color. Now collected, not as a substitute for gold, but for its antiquity.

PIQUE - Gold and silver worked into tortoiseshell in various designs.

PIQUE DIAMONDS - Stones with pin - points or spots of carbon discernible under varying magnifications. Some pique' diamonds are now laser treated to burn away obvious flaws.

PLATINOID - An alloy consisting of copper, nickel and zinc, used now mainly for forming electrical coils and standards.

PLATINUM - From the Spanish Platina del Pinto, Little River of the Pinto, the South American River where the silvery metal was first discovered. It was not used in great quantity until after World War 1. It does not tarnish. It is lighter and harder than silver which it superseded as a setting for diamonds. For jewelry, platinum is usually alloyed with 3% copper, or with 10 5 iridium for harder metal and 5% for a medium one. Platinum is considered the ideal material for diamond settings. Until recently the free world's only significant source of platinum has been South Africa. Geologists have now found a 28 mile long vein of platinum, nearly as rich as the ore in South Africa's Merensky reef. This new source is in a remote and rugged range 25 miles north of Yellowstone National Park, Stillwater County, Washington. Since January 1985 platinum prices have more than doubled; as of December 1986 an ounce was worth $471 as compared with the then price of $405 for gold. Chevron Corp., Manville, Corp. and Lac Minerals of Canada formed The Stillwater Mining Co. in order to open the nation's first platinum mine.

PLIQUE A JOUR - Enamel work in which the enamel has no background (it is confined within un-backed metal frames) and resembles the effect of a stained glass window. The design is outlined in metal and filled with a variety of colored, transparent/translucent enamels. In this process there is no backing behind the enamel, so the effect is similar to stained glass windows. A technique used widely in Art Nouveau jewelry and of which Rene' Lalique is considered the master.

POINCON - Refers to continental silver.

PRINCE Albert - Refers to a man's vest watch chain, single or double width, which was popularized by Prince Albert.

POSY RINGS - Those which have a "posy", "rhyme", or motto engraved on the inner side. They were popular in the 16th and 17th centuries.

PRECIUM - A palladium - silver alloy developed for jewelers by Handy & Harman. Used both as a casting alloy and a wrought alloy. As a casting alloy it is widely used by manufacturers of class rings. PRECIUM is 25% palladium and 62 - 75% silver, the rest unnamed. PRECIUM II, the wrought alloy formulation is 25% palladium and 86.75% silver.

PROVENANCE - Documented history of a piece including origins and important owners, etc.

PLUM GOLD - Gold products, which when marked with a quality stamp, must assay at that level. For instance, a ring stamped 14k must assay 58.33% gold including solder and ornamentation. Canada adopted a plumb gold law on March 15, 1982. The tolerance allowed is similar to U.S. Standards 3 parts /1000 where no solder is used and 7 /1000 when solder is used. Silver tolerance 2 / 1000 with no solder and 6 /1000 with solder.

QUARTERGOLD - A 6k gold alloy, six parts gold and 18 parts base metal, introduced by A. Arthur Altman in 1973. Developed as an affordable alternative to high karat gold jewelry, it lost favor with producers and discontinued by mid 1978.

QUARTER PALLADIUM - An alloy of 60% silver, 25% palladium and 15% base metal. A gold look - alike marketed by Dieges & Clust.

QUARTZ - The name was first used by miners in the Erzgebirge on the borders of Saxony and Bohemia. The modern word quartz was obviously derived from the same source. It is the commonest of all minerals and occurs all over the world. It occurs in many colors. The yellow variety, citrine, is named from the French for lemon in obvious allusion to its color. The purple is called amethyst - the word being derived from the Greek word meaning "not drunken" because of the notion that it protected one from overindulgence. The "cairngorm," yellow or brown quartz, is named after the mountains in Scotland, and the name is from the Gaelic cairngorm, a blue carin. Quartz is a silicon oxide (SiO2) with the various colors being derived from metallic oxides.

RADIANT CUT -Based on the emerald cut, it features 70 facets with emerald - type facets above the girdle and triangular facets below. Invented by Henry Grossbard. First reported about 1976 or 1977. It is claimed to be more brilliant for diamonds than the emerald or Barian cut.

REBUS - Often used on intaglios for seal purposes. Words are represented by objects or symbols, the names of which, when sounded in sequence, give the solution.

RED EMERALD - A ruby - red beryl, a crimson counterpart of emerald, was discovered in Utah and reported to the 36th annual Conclave of the American Gem Society held in Cincinnati in 1970. It is the first true red beryl ever reported.

REGALADIUM - An alloy of silver, palladium, nickel, chrome and other element. Said to be harder and more durable than white gold and non- - tarnishing. The jewelry use is for class rings. It was advertised in 1974. Make by D.F. Goldsmith Chemical & Metal Corp. Evanston, IL.

REGARD RING - A ring set with a row of small stones of different kinds, the initial letters of which spell a word, for example, to spell "regard", the stones could be: Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Diamond.

REPOUSSE' WORK - The raising of a pattern in relief on metal by beating from the under side.
RESILLA - From resille, a network, a name applied to a type of ornamentation composed of small beads sewn in patterns.

ROLLED GOLD PLATE - If the layer of gold is less that 1/20th of the entire weight of the article, a fractional mark must be used to indicate the amount of gold. For example, "1/40th 12k rolled gold plate". Fusing gold to a base metal with heat and pressure produces rolled gold; a process similar to that used for producing "Old Sheffield Plate" silver. The base metal may be "gilding metal", nickel silver or silver.

ROMAN FINISH - The dull yellow effect on a plain or modeled surface gained by depositing fine gold on a roughened surface. It is softer than the bright finish, and was
obtained by early jewelers by chemical action on the article itself by means of which the alloy of silver and copper was eaten out on the surface and pure gold left.

ROSE CUT - A method of cutting stones dating from the mid-seventeenth century. The stone has a flat base and raises to a faceted pointed top. The diamond is cut with 24 triangular facets in the shape of a hemisphere. In all seven principal variations of the rose cut the facets are hexagonally arranged and the base of the stone is flat.

ROSE GOLD - A gold of any karat alloyed with copper or copper and silver. To give a rose color or hue.

ROUND BRILLIANT CUT - A standard modern cut of round stones, having facets totaling 58 (33 facets on the crown and 25 facets on the pavilion if a culet is present).

RUBY & SAPPHIRE - Both are varieties of the same mineral and share all the characteristics except color. Chemically, they are corundum whose composition is aluminum oxide (Al2O3), the red variety being ruby and the blue, sapphire. With the exception of the diamond, corundum is the hardest of the gemstones. Ruby means red and is derived from the Latin ruber thorough the late form rubinus. Sapphire comes from the Sanskrit, meaning "beloved of Saturn." The English word from the Persian saffir, through the French or Arabic safir, or the Greek sapphiros. Blue is the best-known color bit it can also be green, yellow, brown - orange, pink or colorless.

SARD - Identical to carnelian except for the color which is a deep brownish - red. It was used by the Greeks and Romans for engraved intaglios and seals; not used much now for jewelry. The word comes from the Greek, sardios - a Sardian stone from Sardeis, capital of Lydia.

SAUTOIR - A very long narrow necklace (beads or chain), often having a tassel or ornament at the bottom.

SCARF RINGS or SLIDES - Like large finger rings, but flattened instead of circular, with a gadget inside the back which held the scarf securely. Popular during the Edwardian period.

SEAL - Carved with an intaglio but with design reversed so that it is readable when impressed in wax, etc. To decipher, hold in front of a mirror.

SEED PEARL - A natural pearl 2mm or less in size.

SILADIUM -An alloy of eight non-precious metals. It is too soft to be used in the pure state, the usual alloying metal being copper. Sterling silver is 925/1000 parts fine silver and 25/1000 copper. Silver tarnishes on exposure to the hydrogen sulphide present in the air, especially in our modern industrialized society. Silver jewelry is not often given a thin plating of rhodium to give it a tarnish-resistant finish. Silver for jewelry became popular for diamond settings after the development of the brilliant cut as it added no yellowish tinge to the stones as did yellow gold. However, when platinum became available, it readily replaced silver for this use.

SILVER ALLOY - A new silver alloy produced by Handy & Harman solve the dilemma of jewelers who dislike adulterating their jewelry with base metals. "Consil #955" is an alloy of silver, magnesium and nickel and contains more fine silver than sterling, thus permitting the use of the "Sterling" silver stamp.

SILVER FILLED - A silver alloy of not less than 925/1000 fineness mechanically bonded to a base metal. The layer of silver must weigh at least 1/2oth of the entire article to be called "silver filled."

SILVER PLATE - Actually electro - plate or deposit of silver electrolytically on a base metal.

SINGLE CUT - A round 18 faceted stone, USED for smaller stones.

SLEEPER EARRINGS - Small gold earrings whose posts are larger than normal. Worn to keep the pierced holes in ear from resealing themselves.

SPHENE - From the Greek, sphen, a wedge, from the form of its crystals, it is also called titanite from its chemical composition. It is generally green, yellow or brown and shows strong dispersion and dichroism. The "fire" excels that of a diamond, but its hardness is only 5.5 on the Mohs scale, making it too soft for general use in jewelry.

SPINEL - It is frequently called "Balas Ruby," a term derived from Badakshan, the name of the district in Afghanistan which is said to have been the source of the finest stones in mediaeval times. Spinel is magnesium aluminate (MgA1204) and is chemically related to corundum (ruby and sapphire). Spinels do not have the rich color of the corundum stones.

STAMPING ACT - A new Stamping Ave amendment was signed into law on October 1, 1976 following years of pressure by the Jewelers' Vigilance Committee. It closed the gap which exists between stamped and actual gold content in karat gold jewelry. Five years from that date, October 1, 1981, manufacturers were no longer able to sell articles manufactured under the old tolerances which permitted them to use gold alloys that were half of full karat less than the content stamped. As of that date, articles manufactured with no solder must assay to within 3/1000ths. of the stamped gold content. Articles made with solder must assay to within 7/1000ths of the stamped mark. Retailers and wholesalers are not restricted as to time to sell off old inventories.

STAR SET - A gem is deeply set, with its table scarcely rising above the surface of surrounding metal, having rays engraved as though coming from the gem, which then appears as a star.

STARFIRE - An alloy of one half 14k gold and one half sterling silver for wedding rings. Introduced by A. H. Pond Company in 1974 for their Keepsake wedding rings.

STEP CUT - Horizontal, layered facets, as in emerald cut, also called trap-cut.

STERLING - An allow of 925/1000 fine silver with a permitted tolerance of 4/1000ths for an article made without solder or 10/1000ths if it includes solder.

STERLING II - Wallace silversmiths' answer to the high cost of silver. Handles of spoons, forks and knives are hollow sterling. Bowls and tines are stainless steel - just as knives have been for years. So far, the legality of the term has not been seriously questioned.

STRASS - An imitation gem. Both France and Germany have claimed its discovery. The French claimed that Strass, a Paris jeweler in 1712 discovered an improved lead glass formula which was manufactured and developed by Martin Lanqon, a lapidary from St. Claude. The German claim credits Strasser, a Viennese goldsmith. Still a third claim was made for Strass, a jeweler in Strasbourg, said to have invented it in 1758.

STYLE - A piece described (i.e.) as "Georgian style" has the appearance of a piece made during that period, but was made at a later date.

SYNTHETIC - A man-made material with essentially the same optic, chemical and physical properties as its natural counterpart. Synthetic does not mean "a substitute for". If a description of a stone, for example, on an appraisal, is not prefaced by the term "synthetic" and is, it could be deemed to of natural origin.

SYNTHETIC DIAMONDS - On May 28, 1970 General Electric Company announced that they had produced gem quality synthetic diamonds. Their costs to date far exceed that of natural stones. G.E. first produced industrial diamonds in 1954. These are used for abrasives, drilling and wire - drawing.

TABLE -The large horizontal facet on the top of a faceted stone.

TAILLE D'EPERGNE - A kind of enameling, the reverse of CHAMPLEVE, as the ornamentation is simply engraved and then filled with enamel.

TANZANITE - The deep blue variety of zoisite was first discovered in Tanzania in 1967 to which Tiffany & Company gave the tradename "Tanzanite," It has a hardness of 6 on the Mohs scale. Most crystals occur in a variety of colors, usually brownish or greenish and are heat treated to produce the deep blue color. This treatment is permanent and is a duplication of the natural process, but accelerated by man.

TESTED - A metal that has been acid tested to ascertain that it is gold or silver, etc., and if such further tested to give a near accurate assessment of gold content or silver content.

THUMB RINGS - Worn from the 14th to the 17th century.

TOPAZ -Chemically, it is fluosilicate of aluminum. The word "topaz" comes from a Sanskrit word meaning hear of fire. According to Pliny, the gem was named for the island of Topazus, where the stones were first found. Topazus means to seek; the little island was thought of as the typical color of topaz, it also occurs in a wide range varying from pale honey yellow to the darkish brown. It also occurs in pink, blue, green and colorless. True pink does occur in nature but most pink topazes have attained that color thorough heat treatment. Topaz is very hard, being 89 on the Mohs scale. It wears well in jewelry but care must be used if it is set in rings because of its very strong cleavage. Jewelers also apply the name topaz to other stones; smoky topaz is actually smoky quartz; Oriental topaz is yellow corundum (yellow sapphire); Bohemian topaz and occidental topaz are actually CITRINE as are most of the stones sold today under the "topaz" name. True topaz should always be indicated as "imperial" or "precious" topaz to distinguish it from other stones.

TORSADE - Any strands of jewelry that can be worn twisted.

TOURMALINE - The name is derived from the Singhalese word, turamalli, meaning carnelian, which was applied for the first time when a parcel of these stones were brought from Ceylon to Amsterdam in 1903. They may occur in pink, red, yellow, blue, brown, black or green. An outstanding feature of some stones is their marked dichroism. Some crystals show two or three color bands. One of the most beautiful types being red or pink on one end and green on the other, with a colorless area between. This is called "watermelon tourmaline." Tourmaline has no cleavage and does not tent to break or chip easily. The hardness is 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale.

TREMBLANT - A section of a piece of jewelry mounted on a tiny spring to allow it to tremble when worn.

TURQUOISE - A beautiful opaque stone which gives its name to the color. It was used extensively in jewelry at the end of the 18th century and during the 19th. Said to have been named Turkois (Turkesa or Turkey Stone) by the ancient Venetians. The only gemstone belonging to the phosphates, it is a hydrous phosphate of aluminum with a small percentage of copper giving it the blue coloring. When associated with iron the color tends to be greenish. The best turquoise is deep blue and even in color. Stones which contain matrix have lessened color. The color can be impaired by immersion in dirty water. When making a purchase, care should be taken to determine that a stone has not been artificially stained or that the surface has not been waxed to improve its appearance. The best turquoise comes from the mountains near Nishapur in Persia, the Sinai Peninsula and the United States. It is fairly soft being only 6 on the Mohs scale.

TATANIA - A trade name for a diamond simulant.

ULTRIUM - A gold look alike marketed by Herff - lones.

UNION PIN - A pin in two parts, one part having a hole or socket into which the point of the actual pin fits, so that it is joined into one piece.

VERMEIL - Sterling silver base with requisite quantity of gold applied. Fraction may indicate ration of gold content to total weight. In past usage, the term meant "gold on
sterling" but some firms use similar sounding names for gold electroplate on stainless steel. Jewelers' Vigilance Committee attempting to write a standard for vermeil, has not yet agreed on specifications.

VEST CHAIN - Goes to one pocket and has a bar and drop chain for attaching a charm.

VINAIGRETTE - A small box made of gold, silver, etc., with perforations on the top for holding aromatic vinegar, smelling salts, etc.

WALDEMAR CHAIN - Worn across the vest between the two pockets. On one end there is a swivel for the watch and on the other a spring ring for a knife, cigar cutter, pencil or other trinket.

WHITE GOLD - Developed to replace platinum, especially for settings for diamonds, when it was banned for use in jewelry during Worked War I. Even before the war the search for a substitute had begun. In 1906 there were two main avenues of research underway - the gold - palladium alloys and the gold - nickel alloys. The gold - palladium alloy was not as white as desired and the white nickel alloy was extremely hard and brittle. It cracked when stretched and also broke diamond setter's tools. The Belais brothers of New York experimented for 30 years before David Belais first introduced his white gold to the trade in 1917. About 1930 the need for more frequent annealing was realized and the working qualities of white gold improved. Today it is worked with very nearly the same ease as any other colored gold. White gold is now produced by alloying copper, nickel and zinc with gold. The percentage varies. For instance, 14k white gold may be 58% gold, 5-17% nickel, 2% zinc and the remainder copper. The whiter the gold, the greater its nickel content. Eighteen karat gold may be as much as 20% nickel. Advertisements of the 1920's sometimes mention the settings as "18k Belais" rather than saying "white gold."

YAG - Yttrium aluminum garnet, a synthetic substitute for diamond. 8.5-10 on the Mohs scale. Marketed under the name Diamonair and others.